As a consummate traveler, my trips are often highlighted by taste testing local cuisines. Traditional foods are an integral part of the local flare and culture. I firmly believe that one can learn more about a people by sharing a traditional meal than by visiting a museum. My recent travels to Lviv,Ukraine has reaffirmed in me this truism.
Haute cuisine in Paris includes “Pate de foie gras”, terribly controversial! A Dim Sum in Beijin serves up spicy chicken feet, definitely an acquired taste. Lviv tops it all- cured or fermented slabs of pig fat called”salo”is the ultimate of local delicacies!
Picture the courageous Cossack, conquering the great steppes of Ukraine through bitterly cold winters. These carnivorous tribesmen knew that they needed to fill their bellies and keep their bodies warm in order to conquer and survive. What better way to attain these creature comforts than to indulge in the ultimate feast-”salo”!
Of course, the Lviv of 2011 is a very cosmopolitan place with a great array of international restaurants ranging from trendy Sushi bars to traditional Italian Eateries. By far my favorite remains-The International House of Salo – a culinary delight. Are you ready to tickle your taste buds, be prepared to rejuvenate your sense.
At my first attempt at being a local gourmet, I am told that it is all in the presentation. I am assured that once I am hooked, I will soon realize why it is called the Ukrainian narcotic! The trick is to slice the salo very thinly and place it delicately on a fresh piece of sour dough bread. Garlic is the quintessential spice in this part of the world and a full clove is the minimum amount for this canape. To complete the gastronomical extravaganza, 100 grams of the finest ” Horilka” or Vodka is an absolute must! This is a cultural and culinary experience that you will not soon forget. What appears to be trending in the more chi chi establishment is Lviv, is to add a slice of world renowned Lviv chocolate to give the overall experience a touch of the exotic.
However much Leopolites adore their salo, they also have many related anecdotes and openly joke about it. They assure me that salo is not only their national dish, it is also a philosophy and an integral part of the phsyche in Lviv. It is as strong a symbol of nationalism and patriotism as is their flag or their coat of arms.
As a staunch vegan, I must admit that this particular dish will take some courage to digest. Again, my friends in Lviv appease my disdain with a recent discovery about salo. Apparently, it has anti-radiation qualities and has become an essential part of the local diet ever since Chernoby. To convince me, They will have to think of a better reason to justify the consumption of this- their nation dish.
For me, travel is synonymous with curiosity and I have to keep reminding myself that curiosity killed the cat. On a serious note, I suggest that one step out of one’s culinary comfort zone when visiting a new culture. Etiquette dictates that one respect and honor local eating rituals. My advice to the novice is: look at it as serenading your palate with a unique culinary concept. Salo- the mainstay of every Ukrainian meal.
Enjoy Salo in the comfort of the fully equipped kitchen in your very own Lviv apartment
It is officially Shrove Tuesday and all over the world Christian communities begin their period of fasting or lent prior to the Easter celebrations-Lviv is no exception! In Latin countries this Tuesday is called “Mardi Gras” . In Lviv and the Slavic world it is called Maslyana.
